15

How would a 15" speaker sound with it maxed out with watts?  would it be pretty loud?

depends on the sub, and NEVER apply the max wattage to a sub, give it around RMS. Some subs may handle more than the RMS, but never give it more than the max.

right now i have two 12" mtx 5500's and they are 600w rms together. i just bought one 12" kicker L7 and that alone is 750w rms. the amp will perfectly power it at 750. and it will be loud!
look at www.sonicelectronix.com they have fair prices.

can anyone guide me to hook up basic tweeters?

15's sound great.  the speaker diameter is your personal choice limited by the space you have and/or are willing to give up for the sub and box.  the sub, amp and ohms load need to match up with each other most importantly.  i dont concern myself with under or over-powering a sub.  you will blow a sub faster under-powering it with dirty power than over-powering it with clean power.  the trick is knowing when the sub or amp is starting to clip and not turning it up to that level unless its for a short burp to impress your friends.  

i wish i could help ya, i have always bought speakers with a built in tweeter. i would imagine though that you could hook it in parallel to your door speakers but i am not sure.

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ORIGINAL: 98monte

How would a 15" speaker sound with it maxed out with watts?  would it be pretty loud?

 
To get any decent response out of a question like this- you really need to specify the brand/model of sub that you're looking at.
 
They make cheapo $20 15"s that they sell in parts catalogs and at radio shack that handle under 50 watts rms- and they make 15"s that'll handle 2000+ watts rms for short burps.
 
There have been single 15" extreme class cars that have done deep into the 160 db range (I could've swore there were even a handful in the low 170s)- so it really just varies on exactly what driver you're talking about.
 

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can anyone guide me to hook up basic tweeters?

 
A tweeter is no different than hooking up a normal speaker.  You simply have to take a free channel on your amp/deck, whatever- and connect it just like normal, + to +, - to -.  The only real difference is that you must run a crossover (usually included with the tweeter) inline with the speaker wire- it'll keep the bass and mids out.  Just be careful with the power handling- a lot of the cheap brand tweeters claim 100+ watt power handling numbers- but actual RMS for all tweeters is usually pretty low- in the 30 watt rms and under range.  There is so little actual speaker to move, that it doesn't take much power to create a lot of noise.