RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? -
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[Poll]
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- Do you change your own oil/filter ? -
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| I change my own & use Synthetic |
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| I change my own & use a synthetic blend |
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| I change my own & use conventional motor oil |
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| I have it done & use Synthetic |
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| I have it done & use Synthetic blend |
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| I have it done & use conventional motor oil |
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Total Votes : 44
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(last vote on : 5/2/2008 10:33:20 AM)
(Poll will run till: -- )
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 7/11/2007 10:14:47 AM
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SpaceRider
Posts: 7850
Status: offline
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Does any members use Magnetic Drain Plugs ? Please post `if you do, & if it is a good investment. Why use a magnetic plug?
Magnetic drain plugs attract and hold ferrous metal particles that
circulate through your lubrication or hydraulic system. The particles may be a result of the following conditions:  The constant flaking effect of normal wear of moving parts
Particles not removed by flushing after boring or machining
Chipping due to sub surface casting flaws
Component breakdown caused by stress usage Usually it is a combination of factors that account for the presence of these particles
that are abrasive and will cause excessive wear unless they are removed
An increase of material being collected on your magnetic plug may be early warning of a problem |
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 7/11/2007 12:23:34 PM
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cain45
Posts: 992
Joined: 6/15/2006
Status: offline
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Seems like a waste to me....I mean its only going to work when the engine if off and the oil is sitting in the oil pan.
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 7/12/2007 4:45:52 AM
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SpaceRider
Posts: 7850
Status: offline
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Quick Drain Sump Plug (SP-QDP-01)  More Info:
Miscellaneous Product Enquiry Maximum flow, speedy oil change and minimal clean-up! Eliminate messy oil changes, stripped threads and loose plugs. Just replace the factory oil plug with our high-quality brass plugs. Springs are stainless steel and gaskets are quality copper items. Also suitable for fuel, water and other fluids. Diagram of construction and materials - click here In Standard and Compact sizes See also drainer / hose tail fittings, sold separately
Price and Options: Base Price: £15.99 This item is in stock Size and thread: (required): M12 x 1.5 [Standard Size] M12 x 1.75 [Standard Size] M14 x 1.5 [Standard Size] M16 x 1.5 [Standard Size] M18 x 1.5 [Standard Size] M22 x 1.5 [Standard Size] 1/2 inch UNF [Standard Size] 5/8 inch UNF [Standard Size] 1/2 inch BSP [Standard Size] 3/4 inch BSP [Standard Size] + £4.00 1 inch BSP [Standard Size] + £4.00 M12 x 1.5 [Compact Size] + £2.00 M12 x 1.75 [Compact Size] + £2.00 M14 x 1.5 [Compact Size] + £2.00 M16 x 1.5 [Compact Size] + £2.00 M18 x 1.5 [Compact Size] + £2.00 M22 x 1.5 [Compact Size] + £2.00 1/2 inch UNF [Compact Size] + £2.00 5/8 inch UNF [Compact Size] + £2.00 1/2 inch BSP [Compact Size] + £2.00 3/4 inch BSP [Compact Size] + £6.00 1 inch BSP [Compact Size] + £6.00 Quantity: (*) Mandatory Option Related items you might find useful:
< Message edited by SpaceRider -- 7/12/2007 4:46:58 AM >
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 7/12/2007 4:49:08 AM
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SpaceRider
Posts: 7850
Status: offline
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The Automotive Oil Change, a Saturday afternoon tradition for many people. Why spend the money at a quick lube shop, only to drive off worrying if they tightened your drain plug! You can buy your oil and filter and a few cheap tools, and save some money doing your own automotive oil change.
Let’s look first at a list of tools you will need to change your own oil.
1. Automotive Jack and Jack Stands, or a set of ramps. If you have a large truck or SUV, you may be able to fit under the vehicle without raising it.
2. Set of wrenches or adjustable wrench to remove drain plug. Most cars today use metric fasteners, so a metric wrench set will be best. An adjustable wrench will work, but not as well as a properly sized wrench.
3. Drain pan. There are some cool designs out there which allow you to seal up the pan after draining the oil, and haul it to your local oil recycling place. I do a lot of oil changes, so my pan has a spout where I can pour the oil into a larger container. I take my oil to my local garage where they burn it in their heater during the winter months.
4. Oil filter wrench. The style you buy will be determined by your car. If the engineers were kind to you and gave you room to get to the filter, an adjustable band type will work well. If you have little room, the style which fits over the end of the filter may work better. Take a look under your car and see what will work best for you.
5. Shop rags or towels. It can be a messy job, make sure you have something to clean up with.
Now it’s off to the automotive store to buy your supplies. You will need oil, filter and a drain plug gasket. You may not need to replace the drain plug gasket every oil change, but have one around just in case. I won’t go into what brand of oil to buy, regular or synthetic, or what brand of filter. I will include some links at the bottom of this article to other sections of this website which cover all that.
So now you are back to the house with your supplies and tools, let’s get on with your automotive oil change.
1. Raise the vehicle with your jack and secure with jack stands… never leave the vehicle resting on the jack, always use the jack stands to support the vehicle. If you have ramps, make sure they can not slip when driving onto them, and no matter how you raise your vehicle chock the rear wheels so the vehicle can not move.
2. Position your drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug. Try not to get too much oil all over yourself and make sure the majority of the oil gets into the pan. Some people recommend draining the oil when it’s hot… I am not one of them. Todays multi-weight oils are thinner when cold and when changing oil burn a lot less ! Let the oil drain for a few minutes.
3. Inspect drain plug and remove any debris from the end. Most drain plugs have a magnet in the end to catch metal shavings floating around in the oil. Also check the gasket if your car has one (not all do) and replace if damaged.
3. Locate the oil filter and loosen it. Move the drain pan under the filter to catch any oil which may run down.
4. Clean the gasket mating area where the filter meets the engine block. This is important for a good seal with the new filter.
5. Take you new filter and put some fresh oil around the rubber gasket at the face. You can prefill the filter with oil if your filter mounts vertically, but if it’s horizontal, I would not prefill.
6. Tighten the oil filter. Thread the filter on finger tight then tighten 1/4 turn. Anymore and you will not be able to remove it at the next oil change, any less and you will have oil leaking out as you start your engine.
7. Bring your car back down to the ground and open the hood.
8. Fil
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 7/12/2007 7:19:31 AM
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SpaceRider
Posts: 7850
Status: offline
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Has any MCF Member used the below ? If yes, What did you think ? If no, Would you ? ____________________________________________________________
Welcome to Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve
OVER 2 MILLION VALVES SOLD WORLDWIDE!
U.S. Patent 4078763
One Touch Operation Reduces Oil Changing Time and Expenses Eliminates Stripped Thread No More Contact with Hot Oil No Messy Hands or Cloths Easy Installation  Introducing the best way to change oil, the Engine Oil Drain Valve. Install this valve and you can drain your engine oil without tools and without mess. Just lift the lever of this solid brass ball valve and give it a quarter turn to open it. Return the lever to its original position and it locks closed, double sealed to prevent leakage. The Engine Oil Drain Valve is made of corrosion resistant forged brass and stainless steel. The ball valve design provides a straight flow for efficient drainage and a perfect seal when closed. Frozen drain plug and stripped threads are eliminated forever. Drawing samples for oil analysis is as easy as one-two-three. Sizes to fit all cars, light trucks vans heavy-duty trucks and buses. Also fits RVs, marine engines and industrial equipment. N-Type Valve(w/Nipple)
*N-Type Valve:The Engine Oil Drain Valve is also available with "Nipple" to accept hose to allow draining of the engine oil out of tight spots. It makes oil changing easy for industrial engines, boat engines and other hard-to-reach applications.
(Dimension of Valves & Adapters)
Regular - 7/8" in length(Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.) N-Type(w/Nipple) - 1 1/2" in length Adapters(ADP-104,106,107,109) - 9/16" in length
(Endorsements) The Engine Oil Drain Valve has been tested and granted "Genuine Parts" status by 5 major motor vehicle manufacturers in Japan, including Nissan, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Isuzu. These approvals were not granted easily and gaining them was a testimony to the quality and durability o
< Message edited by SpaceRider -- 7/12/2007 7:24:08 AM >
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RE: - Do you change your own oil/filter ? - - 8/8/2007 5:22:57 AM
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SpaceRider
Posts: 7850
Status: offline
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Synthetic or Conventional Oil? To grasp this slippery subject, we first need to cover some fundamentals. Synthetic oils are a result of scientific manipulation of non-conventional fluids, but here the silk-or-polyester analogy stops. Synthetic oils are definitely not the equivalent of polyester leisure suits; in fact, they are generally priced three to four times that of conventional oil. And, more to the point, synthetics are an improvement over their conventional kin.
Let's break down the details of synthetics, and what makes them better. One definition of "synthetic" is big molecules built up from small ones. Like genetic engineers, the oil companies figured they could improve the performance of engine oil and eliminate some of the shortcomings in the laboratory.
In the simplest terms, the base stock of synthetics, polyalphaolefin (PAO) starts as ethylene gas, a simple two-carbon molecule that is built up to a 10-carbon molecule. Three of these super molecules are combined to form PAO, a base stock that offers a number of advantages over Mother Nature's version. Synthetics are more stable, flow at lower temperatures, are more resistant to boiling off, and less susceptible to oxidation, which causes thickening with prolonged high temperatures.
The inherent element with crude stock for motor oil is the molecular construction. Conventional motor oil is a batch of short-chain and long-chair carbon and hydrogen atoms. In extreme heat, the short chains can evaporate and these unstable molecules oxidize and break down. In addition, contaminants and reactive and/or unstable hydrocarbons can sneak through the refining process.
What's It Worth? Are synthetics worth the extra cost? Universally, the answer is yes, whether for a high-revving turbo motor or an older engine that gets little use. Using another vivid comparison, French champagne is also worth the extra expense over sparkling wine, but it comes down to matters of your taste and bank account. Note, too, that most auto manufacturers do not specify synthetics, so unless you're one of the few who need synthetic oil, rest assured that you're doing no harm with good old-fashioned crude as long as you follow the owner's manual recommendations on viscosity and grade.
On the other hand, synthetics are better on a number of levels. They keep the engine cleaner through improved sludge and varnish protection, reduce engine wear at high temperatures with more stable viscosity, protect the engine when it's running under severe conditions at high temperatures, provide better cold-temperature starts with faster oil flow at ignition and improve fuel efficiency.
Myths As w
< Message edited by SpaceRider -- 8/8/2007 7:52:05 AM >
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